Emma Farrell Make-Up Artist

I attended a MAC Trends Masterclass which was hosted in the Brown Thomas headquarters. The masterclass was run by Lesley Keane and Nikki Gillick.

The day started off with a snappy video of all the backstage action in London, Paris, Milan and New York. I love seeing the mayhem and discord before a big show. Leslie fresh from behind the scenes herself was able to regale us with tales and anecdotes. The biggest trend (which I was talking about in a previous post) is definitely bleached eyebrows.

This can be done using the good ‘ol Jolene, usually a staple for the lady bleaching her top lip, you can now use it to stay on trend and brighten up those brows. If you don’t want to commit fully to this look, you can always cheat it by using MAC full coverage foundation and working it into the brows with a mascara wand. Make sure you brush them in all directions ensuring that every side of each hair follicle is covered.

There were a few mentions of this season being a real throwback to the 70s with strong colours and a more rounded eyeshape, following the natural curve of the eyesocket.

I went away from the event inspired.

Here are the finished looks:

Here are some of the MAC Trend Facecharts for Spring Summer:

American Nomad Trend

Dye a Tribe Trend

Pale n Dandy Trend

Underground Society Trend

I have been contacted alot lately about becoming a make-up artist and the different courses that are out there. So I thought I would put together a few tips:

1) DREAM:

Flawless Skin

Before you even start I recommend you use a primer, a good one is Smashbox Matt Primer. With the onslaught of hormones and nights out, young skin, can often be prone to outbreaks. The best quality and priced concealer out there has to be the Rimmel Clear Stick. For extra stubborn spots, keep layering the concealer and powder inbetween layers.

Rimmel Clearstick

It is always best to invest in a good foundation as this will be the base for make-up and if you spend extra here, it will be sure to last the whole night. I would recommend Estee Lauder Doublewear Foundation. This full coverage foundation is non-transferable, which translates as NON-MOVEABLE, no need for touch ups However I would recommend you use a good make-up remover to take it off.

Estee Lauder Doublewear

Rimmel also do a great clarifying powder that like the concealer also helps to fight off blemishes and further breakouts whilst setting your make-up.

Eyes

Dramatic eyes are a must for your debs make-up look. Why not go for a sultry smokey eye, dark colours will make your eyes pop for the photographs. For an alternative to the smokey look, why not try some dramatic eyeliner with some falsh eyelashes. Girls Aloud and Eyelure have brought out a fantastic range .  Make sure to put on lashings of Mascara no matter what look you decide to go for…its like the frame on a good picture, helps to focus the viewers eye!

Girls Aloud Lashes

Lips

If eyes aren’t what you like to define you can still have alot of fun with lips. There are some gorgeous reds out there at the moment, especially from Armani and Chanel. They know how to do classic colours to perfection. Really well defined lips are seriously in vogue. Sometimes lippy can be a bit of a nuisance, because you have to keep topping it up, make sure to use a long lasting one like the Max Factor Lip Finity and that won’t be an issue.

Max Factor Lip Finity

Powder, Contour and Blush

The camera likes to make things look a bit flat, so to combat this you should always contour. Make the best of your bone structure. Using a Matt bronzer do a C-Shape from the forehead down to the centre of the cheaks. If you are having trouble finding where to place it, just suck in your cheeks. This is a very subtle effect…not to be confused with the early 90s blusher craze! Make sure to blend well. Then to add a flush of colour to your cheeks, smile and place blusher on to the apples of your cheeks, blending using light circular motions.

Then you are done! Easy Peazy! If you find this all a bit too much, you could always get your make-up done by a professional… Give me a shout: Emma 0863274449 for my rates

Photo Editing and the Affects it has on Society:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hibyAJOSW8U&feature=fvw]

This is one of my favourite youtube videos, I saw this back in 2006 and showed it to all my friends and they couldn’t believe it, they had no idea that kind of thing happened. The video didn’t really surprise me, because I am in the Industry, but I was shocked that they were so naive!

I remember growing up that I was really self concious and unsure of myself. I had moments where I felt fat or ugly or different. I know now that this is all a part of growing up and perfectly normal. I found it hard and time really does help you to gain some perspective on things and of course yourself. I have found that I have finally accepted myself and the way I look and use the skills that I have as a make-up artist to accentuate what was given to me.

It makes me ponder how the kids emerging into todays photoshop wizardy years can cope with the pressure of the superhumans…people that are stick thin but have big boobs, size zero but no ribs protuding, perfect eyelashes etc little do they know that this is all covered up with the brilliance of photoshop.

Another example:

Don’t get me wrong, I think that photoshop is brilliant and I even used it for this article (WARNING: the image above is photoshopped lol!) I just think that the general public should just be more aware of whats going on and not take what they see too literally.

Fashion, Film, Tv, Theatre, Magazines…its all smoke and mirrors and meant to push the imagination! It is not reality! You wan’t reality check out Big Brother, it’s not that pretty

Ok, so I managed to restrain myself a teensy bit, surprise surprise!

I went to the MAC Pro Store in London, which is located in the heart of West Soho. My visit happily co-incided with the Gay Pride Festival, so there was a fantastic buzz about the place. I really enjoyed the vibrant energy and taking a peek at the wild drag make-up. I managed to “drag” hehe myself away from the parade to pop into the store and buy a few bits and pieces.

I got me some pigments of course…soo hard to resist!

I bought Fuchsia, Neo-Orange and Gold. I am looking forward to using these bad boys! Have a photoshoot coming up which I think will be a good time to experiment, will post the photos later so keep your eyes peeled.

I also got a fantastic glitter pigment called Crystallized Lime, think this will be really cool with the Neo Orange pigment to create a neon raver look!

Of course I needed a medium for the pigments so I got the eyeliner mixing medium, because it is safe to use in the eye area and it has a nice thick consistancy, which I plan to use for some intense colour.

I was also loving their lipmixes, so picked up three of them, Burgandy, which I thought would be great to darken any of the lipcolours I already have. Crimson, because it is such a fantastic femme fatale red and Gold to go with the gold pigment I got…I feel a gold themed look coming up

And of course it wouldn’t be a MAC visit without getting some of the old faithful, face and body foundation. This is one of my favourite MAC products, I go through tons of this stuff. I tend to only use a bit of this in the summer as I like my skin to glow. Also alot of the models I work with have impeccable skin so I only have to use this with a teeny bit of concealer.

Ok it wouldn’t be a a MAC visit without getting a few brushes….hehe well you know what they say, a bad workman likes to blame his tools so I just make sure to arm myself with only the best. I picked up the 188 brush, which is very similar to the 187, but smaller.

This is great for the application of foundation, because its quite small it gives you more control and lets you get right into the inner eye etc, but with it’s duo fibre you are able to get that airbrushed effect and build layer upon layer if needed.

I also bought the 214 brush, this is a nifty little thing for applying eyeshadow without getting any fallout.

I love using it for intense colour and bulding darker shadows. Because of the short hairs you can use it for very controlled application which make it brilliant for applying shadow to the lashline and smudging for that sexy smokey look.

The 217 brush is another tool I added to my make-up belt, it is brilliant for applying creamy colour base and applying concealer under the eyes.

I use it to apply the Hush base that I bought in London and my old favourite Bobby Brown Concealer “Creamy Concealer Kit in Ivory”

I also bought the 219 Brush For precision shading on lid, this is absolutely awesome for any blending that you need to do. I can’t reiterate enough how important good brushes are. When I first started out as a make-up artist I bought cheap brushes from eBay…they did the trick at the time, but all I can say is that I have really stepped my game up in the last few years because I have invested in good tools which certainly make the job easier.

I also bought some other bits and bobs, but there is no point going into everything. Thank goodness for my MAC Pro card is all I can say, because it all ended up coming to about £300 but with my discount it only cost me £200. Still a lot of money, but  a bargain in comparison. Was around €250 with all the conversions.

Me likey alot!

Sick of carrying a ton of slap around with you, just to maintain the perfect look? Always manage to drop and smash an AWOL  eyeshadow, that jumps kamikaze style out of your bulging handbag? Want to try and reduce the space when travelling but can’t give up your make-up?

Well Bobbi Brown have the answer. They have come up with a nifty idea of making your own personalised palette where you can keep all your beauty must haves in one personalised compact. I always keep an eye out for palettes and have been known to buy a few in my time, but I always end up with shades that I don’t use and this can be a waste too. However with Bobby Brown you choose what goes into it. It’s really slim and you can fit nearly everything you need into it, eyeshadow, blusher, lip gloss and even foundation! There is a melted down version of their foundation sticks. This is a great portable make-up kit.

So I decided to get my own make-up palette and bring you through the steps.  This one would be ideal for a bride on her wedding day, or for a natural beauty look. I did notice that the colour swatches aren’t an exact representation of the actual colour, so just be careful! I have used alot of these shades before so I know what they are actually like.
1.) Choose which Palette you would like:

2.) Then it is on to selecting the eyeshadows. I have kept them very neutral and matt. The reason that we use matt eyeshadows for bridal make-up is because it looks beautifully natural. I have chosen “Bone” this is a great base eyeshadow  and for placing under the eyebrow. I find that this is one of the eyeshadows in my kit that I can never get enough of.

3.) The second eyeshadow to be popped in is Hot Stone. This is a warm brown that I like to place on the lid for a lovely natural, but pretty eye.

4.) The third is Espresso. This is a great defining colour and adds a bit of drama to a look. I use this in the socket and ensure that it is nice and smokey. I also like to use it as an eyeliner for both the top and bottom of the eye. It makes for a nice soft alternative to say a liquid or gel liner.

5.) Just went for a really soft gorgeous blusher called Tawny that gives you a lovely flush of colour. This will suit most undertones.

6.) Lipgloss in Cherry Pink, a  vibrant pink that makes your lips look irresistibly kissable. Gorgeous worn lightly during the day or pile it on for a more intense colour at night.

7.) Lipgloss in Pink Cloud, this is a gorgeous marshmallowy sweet lipgloss, beautiful worn for a day look.

Et Voila! Beautiful Make-Up nicely compacted for your handbag, I am an instant fan and I think you will be too. My only little gripe is that I think you should get a huge discount for buying it all together…it gets a little expensive. Thats all I got this time, but I think the next time I will investigate the foundation and also the quad lipgloss set…four miniature pink glosses that only take up one space in the palette, but thats another days work (and paycheck)!

Laters xx

I have decided to go on a little shopping trip to London…for of course…MAKE-UP! Armed with my M.A.C Pro Card I am going to stock up on cosmetics for my kit.

With this in mind I had to try and resist the lure of the Duty Free Cosmetics in the Airport. They make it sooo hard. Wrapping everything up in handy miniatures and travel compacts.

I particularly liked this try me kit from Smashbox. It includes some of my favourite products from Smashbox. The Photo Finish Primer, is brilliant for making your skin silky smooth and ready for your foundation. It also includes loads of their cream liners, which I like to use as a liner of course, but if I am going for a really dramatic look, I use it as an eyeshadow. Other products included in the kit are: photo op under eye brightener, brow tech, double-ended eyeliner&brow brush, lip enhancing gloss and an instructional DVD.

Anyway I managed to avoid the temptation and save the spondulas for London Baby! So we will wait and see what bounty I come back with teheehee!

I thought that I would just do a quick run through of a “Natural Day Make-Up”. Now for some people it is probably a bit much, as a make-up artist it would be the bare minimum that you would be expected to apply. I have even got a video of me applying it all, this is my first go at doing a youtube tutorial so go easy on me hehe! As with everything I’m sure it will get better with time. Well here’s hoping anyway.

So I start the video by applying my concealer which is Bobby Brown Creamy Concealer Kit in Ivory. If I am doing a day make-up I would usually apply the concealer first.

Concealing Kit

The reason for this is because I would tend to not want to apply to heavy a coverage of foundation so I would need to ensure that all the coverage of my dark under eye circles is coming from my concealer. If I am doing a night time or more dramatic look I would tend to put my concealer on after my foundation, because very often I wont need to use that much because of the thicker coverage/consistency of the foundation.

Then I apply my foundation using the MAC187 Brush:

MAC 187 Brush

I mix Estee Lauder Double Wear in Bone, with Rimmel Recover Foundation in Classic Beige. I darken or lighten the mixture up depending on my tan. In the depths of winter sometimes I have to resort to just using the Estee Lauder Foundation because I am so pale. That’s when I know I need to book a holiday B)

Once I have a flawless canvas then I like to apply my eye shadow I have used colours out of a deluxe eye shadow palette that I got from Estee Lauder a while ago as part of a gift with purchase. I used 39 Vanilla as a base, 53 Ginger Drop all over the eye socket and into the crease, then I used 66 Bronze Cube for definition and shading.

Then I used Logona Organic Black Eye Pencil on the bottom inner eyelid, for definition. If you have small eyes I would leave this step out or perhaps even line the eye with a white or skin colour pencil to widen and brighten.

I then used the Turbolash Mascara from Estee Lauder on my top and bottom lashes. This is a pretty good mascara, the brush is a good size for me, I really like the formula and it doesn’t go clumpy…oh and did I mention it vibrates??!! I have to laugh at the reaction that I get from that…alot of inuendos of double usage…good for travelling light haha.

I applied Blusher concentrating the colour on the apples of my cheeks and then blending out. If you aren’t sure where your “apple’s” are just have a grin and they will pop out. The blusher is Nars Super Orgasm. Do you ever get the feeling that Sex sells?? Between the mascara and the blusher you’d be havin a grand ‘ol time it seems haha.

Then I applied a slick of Estee lauder Pure Colour Crystal Gloss in Candy

And last and certainly not least I used a MAC brow kit powder on my eyebrows. I remember years ago that I hated pencilling in or defining my brows, I just thought it looked weird, but now I have gotten over my fear because it was drilled into me that it really helps to finish the look. I have to agree, it really helps to frame the face and give everything a polished look.

So now that you have read what I put on my face, you can watch the video of me putting it all on.

Enjoy xx

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAwJyvTWm14]

Stare

I just have to say that I am in love…with a new make-up range…Illamasqua. I was drooling over all the beautiful make-ups on the website, I love the drama, beauty and glamour! I love the intensity of colour and the luscious themes. I love the unbridled creativity and use of theatre. I love the fact that beauty and art are explored and the make-up is exciting and creative. According to their website they take their roots from the dark and illicit 1920s club scene.  The brand is manufactured by Kryolan, a company that I know well. I have been using their body painting colours for years which I love. Kryolan has been in the cosmetics industry since 1945 and their attention to quality can be assured. I have been reading tons of reviews online and that is one of the biggest points that I have noted, that the quality of the product is supreme. Designed to be colour-intense, colour-true and long lasting. I haven’t yet had the chance to test it for myself as I was travelling for the last year and a half. I am heading up to Dublin next week where there is a store in BT2 on Grafton Street. Rest assured, I will be like a kid in a candy store and I shall come back and give my own review. Apparently there is a huge palette with which to express yourself, whoever you are and whatever look you want to achieve….so I reckon I could be a lot poorer after the experience hehe!

There has been LOADS of buzz about this make-up range on the internet, in such a small space of time (It’s only been around in the last year) it has garnered a bit of a cult following! Here’s just a few samples of what are being said:

http://www.scrangie.com/2009/05/illamasqua-makeup-for-your-alter-ego.html

 Illamaqua Nail Varnish – Spartan  “ The polishes are thick and opaque. I did two coats of all of them. The formula is extremely smooth and easy to apply. It’s comparable to Rescue Beauty Lounge’s formula, which is pretty much the gold standard for me. The polish dries quickly and wears well. I had no bubbling and after two days of wear had almost no sign of tipwear (that second shot of Rampage- the indoor lighting one- that was taken after two days of wear)…The brushes are good, I did not encounter any wayward bristles or application problems with them. The bottles are really pretty- they’re a solid bottle that’s not going to get knocked over easily and they’re a little bit Gothic in design. Beautiful to look at. I especially love the logo and the shape of the cap:”

 Excerpt from scrangie.com

  http://beaut.ie/blog/?p=10692
 

 “…this is makeup for glamazons and anyone who wants to explore their alter-ego. Beside the pale pink BE
counter, we get perspex, mirrors and shiny black and cream Corian, sculpted into flutes and swirls inspired by the vibe of 1930s Berlin. This is high drama, high fashion stuff. A bit naughty, a lot OTT. Is it glam? Oh, you betcha. Those swanky counters are topped with a multitude of eye-popping colours for nails, eyes, cheeks and lips, but it’s not just about shocking shades. 

Given the goth/burlesque/counter culture vibe of the brand, foundation shades start at white. No joke – you can quite literally walk away with a Sudocrem-esque base, but that’s not to say other skin colours are ignored, because they’re well catered for. I got a perfect match for my milk bottle complexion, and I reckon this brand will become a go-to for anyone who falls between the cracks of other brands’ foundation offerings.”

  

  Excerpt from Beaut.ie

What I like about Illamasqua is that they encourage individuality and are all about bringing out your own unique beauty. That’s what I felt was the problem with a lot of other cosmetics houses, that they tended to just replicate the same look/face on everybody, essentially making everyone walk around like clones.  There is this whole idea of the alter ego which I love, something a little more intense and nightimey(if that’s a word) in all of  us. They also seem to be a very conscientious company, not only do they support the charity S.O.P.H.I.E but they also do not test any of their products on animals. I was surprised to learn when I worked for Esteé Lauder that the majority of companies still do this! Shocking really in this day and age…

Another way that they are different is that they provide consultations rather than ‘make overs’. Their make-up artists spend time getting to know individuals, helping them explore their alter ego and create the look they want to achieve. This is self-expression at its most creative, allowing women and men who dare to be different to create a look that can be achieved confidently at home and flaunted at night. Oh and in case you forget what you talked about at in the consultation, they even record it onto a DVD that you can take home and reference any time you need to. That is such a great idea, can’t believe that no one thought of that before.

I also found while researching the company that the majority of their artists are extremely experienced. They not only have experience in the fashion industry, but alot of them have artistic backgrounds in design, dancing, theatre, television and a whole lot more. It is good to see a company that values having creative and talented make-up artists instead of sales people, trying to puch product down your throat. The Creative Director of the company, Alex Box, is certainly one such talented person.

Alex Box

She studied fine art in the Chelsea College of Art and this has influenced her career that followed. She has worked with a vast array of people and companies, with a large list of names under her belt: Peter Jensen, Stella McCartney, McQ,  Biba, Anne Valerie Hash, Gareth Pugh, Karl Lagerfeld, Richard Burbridge, Miles Aldridge, David Sims, Paolo Roversi, Warren Du Preez , Fashion Rocks, Nick Thornton Jones, Vogue Italy, Vogue France, Vogue Japan, Vogue China, British Vogue, Numero, W, Dazed&Confused, 10 and i-D.

She is seen as one of the most influential make-up artists of our time and has even been compared to the great Pat McGrath http://www.myspace.com/patmcgrathmakeup. Pat McGrath has been synominous with gorgeous fantastical make-up designs that stretch our imagination. She is also THE name in Make-Up Artistry around the world.

I am really excited to see what sort of heights Illamasqua will achieve. Hopefully they will be a refreshing change from M.A.C Cosmetics who I feel have the monopoly on the industry at the moment. They seem to do all the fashion shows, sponsor the make-up for all the new designers coming out of NCAD, they sponsor the Irish Film and Television awards, countless photoshoots, I saw that they sponsored a BAFTA education video given by Christine Blundel another amazing Make-Up Artist in the Film and Television Industry. They have even started doing the make-up for Cirque Du Soliel I read somewhere. Don’t get me wrong, I like M.A.C but there is definitely room for some healthy competition and I think that Illamasqua has the artistic flair and design edge that is needed. They certainly have their finger on the pulse of popular culture with myspace, youtube, facebook and twitter accounts already. I’m really liking their youtube videos and looking forward to many more. Unfortunately I am somewhat addicted to youtube Make-Up Video Channels!!

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdic_F1gtGo&feature=channel_page] 

 I will be sure to make another post when I have gotten my Illamasqua “haul” and post some pictures of my Alter Ego hehe.

 Laters xx